Installation Notes: |
1. |
While it may be possible to install this kit without removing
the bed, it is recommended that you do so, as it is much easier. Support
the front and rear of the chassis on jack stands. Be safe! Avoid pulling
and pushing on the vehicle while it is off the ground. |
2. |
Remove the rear axle, springs, and brackets. To remove the
rivets holding the brackets, grind the rivet heads flush. Center punch the
rivet and drill through using progressively larger drills up to a 5/16"
drill. The rivet should be relatively easy to punch out if it is not then
continue drilling with a 3/8" drill. Take care not to drill the original
rivet holes larger or off center, as you will be locating your new parts
with these holes. |
3. |
Install the leaf spring brackets on the outside and underside
of each rail with the spring hole in front |
|
'48-'52 pick-ups: The four holes on the sides attach in the
same manner as the originals and the bottom hole must be drilled out. |
|
'53-'56 pick-ups: The holes for the new bracket must be drilled.
Using a square, make a line 1-1/2" behind the front hole of where the
old bracket was. Hold the bracket up to the rail and line-up the top front
hole on the line you just made. Mark the two upper holes, set aside the
bracket for now and use the paper template to locate the lower holes. Drill
the holes to 3/8" |
|
Fasten the brackets to the rails using the 3/8-24xl-1/4"
bolts, nylox nuts, and one washer under each nut. It may be necessary to
align-drill a couple of these holes. Use the bracket as a template for drilling
the bottom hole and fasten with a 7/16-20 x 1" bolt, nut and washer
combination. There should now be 5 bolts holding on each bracket |
4. |
Install the shackle brackets on the outside and underside
of each rail with the shackle hole towards the rear. Line up the brackets
with the original bracket holes on the frame. It may be necessary to align-drill
a couple of these holes. |
|
'53-'56 pick-ups: The holes for the new shackle brackets must
also be drilled. Using a square, make a line 1-1/2" in front of the
front hole of where the old shackle bracket was. Hold the bracket up to
the rail and line-up the top rear hole on the line you just made. Mark the
two upper holes, set aside the bracket for now and use the paper template
to locate the lower holes. Drill the holes to 3/8" |
|
Use four 3/8-24x1-1/4" bolts, nylox nuts, and one washer
under each nut to fasten each bracket. Use the bracket as a template for
drilling the bottom hole and fasten with a 7/16-20 x 1" bolt, nut and
washer combination. |
5. |
Weld spring pads on the axle. The spring centers are 37-1/8"
and should angle the pinion 5º up. Most people will skip this step
for right now. |
6. |
Install the springs. Use the 1/2-20x4" bolts and nylox
nuts to fasten the front of the spring into the front brackets. To make
things easier, you may want to put the rear-end an a floor jack and roll
it into position, keeping it raised and out of the way of the springs. Place
the shackle bushings into the spring eyes and the shackle bracket. Slide
the shackle pins through a shackle dog-bone and the bushings. Raise the
rear of the spring and attach to the bracket using the shackle dog-bones
and nylox nuts. |
7. |
Set the rear-end onto the springs with spring pads in between.
Center the rear-end and clamp the axle to the springs using the u-bolts,
the 5-hole plates, and 1/2-20" nylox nuts. The 5-hole plates are positioned
under the spring with the shock tabs pointing down on the inboard side and
behind the axle. Typically, the spring pads are 5º down from the pinion,
but just get this close for right now. Later, the final step will be to
set the vehicle an the ground and to check that the pinion angle is 1º
lower than the transmission angle. The pads can be welded on after the spring
pad angle has been checked and repositioned if necessary. |
8. |
Draw a line 27-1/2" in front of the rear bed bolt hole
on top of each rail ('53-'56 pick-ups use 29-1/4"). Center the shock
cross-member an the top of the rails and mark the hole centers on the lines
just drawn. Drill holes through the rail. It is best to drill only the top
of the rails and then set the cross-member in place and use a transfer punch
to mark the hole centers an the bottom of the rail. |
9. |
Install the shock cross-member with the shock mounting tubes
pointing forward and parallel to the ground using the 5/8-18x4-1/2"
bolts and nylox nuts with washers under the bolt heads and nuts. Fasten
the shock studs to the 5-hole plates using the 1/2-20 nylox nuts. Install
the shocks with the remaining fasteners. |