1. |
Support the front and rear of the chassis on jack stands so
that you will be able to install the brake kit from underneath. Be safe!
Avoid pulling and pushing on the vehicle while it is off the ground. |
2. |
Remove the old brake assembly and the cross member it attaches
to. (Note that you will be removing the clutch pedal and this kit does not
include one). To remove the rivets holding the cross member, grind the rivet
heads flush. Center punch the rivet and drill through using progressively
larger drills up to a 5/16" drill. The rivet should be relatively easy
to punch out. If it is not, then continue drilling with a 3/8" drill. |
3. |
Install the chassis bracket (the one with three parallel 90
degree bends) using four 7/16-20 x 1" bolts, washers and nylox nuts.
The lower bracket flange hooks under the frame rail and the upper, vertical
flange bolts to the inside of the rail. The upper rear hole of the bracket
lines up with the side rivet hole where the cross member was. Use the chassis
bracket to transfer the other holes to the frame rail. |
4. |
From underneath the cab, slip the brake pedal through the
firewall and attach the pivot-end to the booster bracket using the 1/2-20xl"
bolt, large flat washer, and lock washer. Bolt the booster bracket on the
chassis bracket using 3/8-24xl" bolts, washers, and nylox nuts. The
pedal pad can now be put on and locked down using the 1/2-20 jam nut. |
5. |
Thread a 3/8-24 jam nut and heim joint onto the booster. Attach
the booster to the booster bracket using the nuts and lock washers provided
with the booster. Make sure you can get access to the vacuum inlet and that
the studs for the master cylinder are orientated correctly. |
6. |
Push the pedal up to its highest position without touching
the firewall (a 1/4" gap will do fine) and adjust the heim on the booster
until the holes line-up. Bolt together using the 3/8-24x 1 3/4" bolt
and nylox nut with the 3/8 i.d.x .25" spacer in-between. It is important
that you check that the pedal moves freely and returns to its highest position
without being obstructed. |
7. |
Bolt the master cylinder on using the remaining nuts and washers. |
8. |
An access panel must be added to the floor to make filling
the master cylinder with brake fluid easier. If you are making your own,
mark the cut-out that you will be using on the underside of the floor above
the master cylinder. Once marked, remove the master cylinder and booster
to allow more room for cutting and working on the floor. Make sure you use
a cover for the hole and that it is secured in place before covering it
with your carpet. |
9. |
You can now connect the vacuum inlet on the booster to a vacuum
port on your engine and your brake lines to the master cylinder. The fluid
reservoir furthest from the mounting flange is for the front brakes. Refer
to a mechanics manual for assistance on bleeding hydraulic brake systems. |