Classic Performance Products 175 East Freedom Avenue Anaheim, CA 92801

1948-'52 Ford Pick Up
Power Brake Kit


(1) chassis bracket     (4) 3/8-24xl" bolts
(1) booster bracket (1) 3/8-24xl 3/4" bolt
(1) pedal (5) 3/8-24 nylox nuts
(1) booster (4) 3/8" flat washers
(1) master cylinder (1) 3/8-24 jam nut
(1) 3/8 female heim joint (4) 7/16-20 nylox nuts
(1) brake pedal pad with bolt (4) 7/16-20x1" bolts
(1) 3/8"i.d. x.25" spacer (4) 7/16" flat washers
(1) 1/2-20xl" bolts
(1) 1/2-20 jam nut
(1) 1/2" large flat washers
(1) 1/2" lock washer
(1) booster nut/washer kit

1. Support the front and rear of the chassis on jack stands so that you will be able to install the brake kit from underneath. Be safe! Avoid pulling and pushing on the vehicle while it is off the ground.
2. Remove the old brake assembly and the cross member it attaches to. (Note that you will be removing the clutch pedal and this kit does not include one). To remove the rivets holding the cross member, grind the rivet heads flush. Center punch the rivet and drill through using progressively larger drills up to a 5/16" drill. The rivet should be relatively easy to punch out. If it is not, then continue drilling with a 3/8" drill.
3. Install the chassis bracket (the one with three parallel 90 degree bends) using four 7/16-20 x 1" bolts, washers and nylox nuts. The lower bracket flange hooks under the frame rail and the upper, vertical flange bolts to the inside of the rail. The upper rear hole of the bracket lines up with the side rivet hole where the cross member was. Use the chassis bracket to transfer the other holes to the frame rail.
4. From underneath the cab, slip the brake pedal through the firewall and attach the pivot-end to the booster bracket using the 1/2-20xl" bolt, large flat washer, and lock washer. Bolt the booster bracket on the chassis bracket using 3/8-24xl" bolts, washers, and nylox nuts. The pedal pad can now be put on and locked down using the 1/2-20 jam nut.
5. Thread a 3/8-24 jam nut and heim joint onto the booster. Attach the booster to the booster bracket using the nuts and lock washers provided with the booster. Make sure you can get access to the vacuum inlet and that the studs for the master cylinder are orientated correctly.
6. Push the pedal up to its highest position without touching the firewall (a 1/4" gap will do fine) and adjust the heim on the booster until the holes line-up. Bolt together using the 3/8-24x 1 3/4" bolt and nylox nut with the 3/8 i.d.x .25" spacer in-between. It is important that you check that the pedal moves freely and returns to its highest position without being obstructed.
7. Bolt the master cylinder on using the remaining nuts and washers.
8. An access panel must be added to the floor to make filling the master cylinder with brake fluid easier. If you are making your own, mark the cut-out that you will be using on the underside of the floor above the master cylinder. Once marked, remove the master cylinder and booster to allow more room for cutting and working on the floor. Make sure you use a cover for the hole and that it is secured in place before covering it with your carpet.
9. You can now connect the vacuum inlet on the booster to a vacuum port on your engine and your brake lines to the master cylinder. The fluid reservoir furthest from the mounting flange is for the front brakes. Refer to a mechanics manual for assistance on bleeding hydraulic brake systems.


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