Classic Performance Products    Installs A Reverse Tilt Hood  For Ford Pickups

A lot of F-100 owners have suffered through the poor hood hinge design of their pickups and decided to eliminate the problem with a reverse-tilt hood kit. We can't find any reason not to convert to a hood flip kit, and now Classic Performance Products has given us yet another reason to make the switch: stainless steel. The new stainless steel kit looks great under any F-100 hood, and of course, it makes your hood look outstanding when open, while eliminating the pathetic original hinges.  

There's no welding necessary--all you have to do is drill a few holes. We picked up a kit from Classic Performance Products and installed it in just a couple of hours. Follow  along as we install a stainless steel reverse-tilt hood kit on a '56 Ford F-100. The common saying is that the original Ford hood opening system didn't work all that well when hey were new (46 years ago For a '53 Ford). While a friend supports the hood, take off the hinge. Then, run around to the other ride and take that one off, too. 

Flip the hood over onto a work surface that will not cause scratches and is stable. If you drop your hood, you'll do more damage than you might expect. 

Unbolt the support rods and then wiggle them back and forth to loosen the plug-welded areas.  The paint will usually crack and reveal the welds. 

Drill out the welds ta removethe support rods. Be careful not to let the in too far. Using a depth gauge as a socket or two slipped over the drill) will help prevent damage. 

Here's the Classic Performance Products stainless steel reverse tilt hood kit as it arrives in the mail. This is high-quality stuff. 

After bolting the underhood  framework together, bolt it to the existing holes with the supplied hardware. 

A few simple measurements ensure that the framework is properly centered on the front edge of the hood. 

A small portion of the metal lip on the underside of the hood will need to be trimmed. After the framework is positioned, mark the area.  

A die grinder works best for cutting this lip. If you don't have a die grinder, you could use a hacksaw, but be careful. File the cut areas smooth. 

The rubber gap will need to be trimmed to match the cutoff metal lip

New holes are drilled in the hood to mount the framework, We used a deep-well socket  to keep the drill from punching through the other side. 

These slick Teflon rollers bolt right up to the existing hole. A nut is to the inside for extra security.  

Remove the old hinges from the truck. 

Remove this bolt from the top of the inner fender area in preparation for installing the track.  

The track has a stud on it that slides down into the hole. 

A nut is threaded onto the stud from underneath the fender,  

This stainless steel dress-up plate mounts to the area where you removed the old hinge to pretty things up.  

One hole for the framework's hinge already exists.  Put the bolt in, then grease the inside of the tube.  

The crossbar for the hinge can be slipped into the two ends by simply sliding one of them sideways.   

 

   

Once the crossbar  in place you can drill the second hole on each side to secure the crossbar hinge. 

   

   

This nice piece is attached to the hood to give the prop rod something to attach to. 

Very, very carefully, line the hood up for reattachment.  Watch all the corners, and protect the fenders with towels.  

A While a buddy holds the hood (if you're really popular, get two buddies to help), attach the crossbar to the framework under the hood, Close the hood a few times (very carefully) to make sure everything is lined up properly.  

Classic Performance products  includes a neat prop rod  with its kit. Measure back the prescribed distance and drill two holes to attach it. 

Now you won't have to worry about the wind blowing your hood shut. This prop rod  stays out of the way so that you can work on your engine.  

 If you've got an engine compartment worth showing off,  a reverse-rilt hood is a visual eye-popper.