| Another cool feature is when it is in
the closed position; the stock hood latch still keeps the hood locked in
|| The CPP kit comes complete with all the
components and hardware for the installation. All of the friction parts
are in polished stainless while the braces and main hinge are in raw steel--which
can be chromed or painted at your discretion.
|| You'll need a friend's help right off
the bat. The first step was to remove the four bolts that attach the hood
to the hinges while supporting the hood.|
| The hood was lifted off the truck and
flipped over onto something soft so it could be worked on. The hinges were
then removed from the cowl.
|| The stock support rods were removed from
the rear of the hood. You can then use them to pry on the front two brackets
to expose the three welds that hold each of them on.
|| A special bit was used to cut out the
three welds and remove the brackets. Then the area was ground smooth. If
your truck is already painted, this is obviously an area you will need to
be careful with.|
| The new braces were then set in place
and bolted to the rear of the hood.
|| Now the top hinge brackets were bolted
to each of the supports with the supplied hardware. These four oblonged
holes are what give you your hood adjustment up front.
|| The pivot bar then temporarily dropped
into the brackets so the supports could be aligned before being bolted to
the front of the hood.|
| Using the tip of the hood spring as a
reference point, the front brackets were measured out equally and marked.
|| A die grinder was used to clearance a
small portion of the metal lip so the supports would lay flush. This is
another area where you'll need to take precautions to protect the existing
|| Alan used a small pair of Vise Grips to
hold the supports in place while he marked and drilled the three holes on
each side. Here he dimpled the metal with a punch to keep the drill bit
from walking on him.|
| The supports were then bolted solid to
the hood using the supplied hardware. Now the pivot bar could be removed.
|| The lower hinges were bolted to the grille
support using an existing hole. By installing the pivot bar (this time permanently
and with a dab of grease), we could determine exactly where the second hole
for the bracket needed to be drilled and bolted.
|| Two of the existing fender bolts were
removed for the polished stainless track to be mounted. The rearmost bolt
is what gives the rear of the hood its adjustment.|
| When you remove the stock hood hinges,
you're left with four big ugly holes and maybe even some mismatched paint.
The cool polished stainless covers were designed to eliminate a trip to
the painter when you install the tilt kit. They simply slid on and were
held with two carriage bolts.
|| These Teflon rollers bolted to the existing
hole in the bottom rear of each side of the hood.
|| Now for the moment of truth. The hood
was held in place while the pivot bar was inserted back into its brackets.
Then the hood was carefully lowered into place and slowly closed. Now is
the time to make all of the adjustments so the hood closes perfectly.|
| All that was left to be installed was
the polished stainless prop rod. A hole was measured out and drilled into
the fender edge between two mounting bolts.
|| Two more holes were measured and drilled
into the bottom edge of the hood as per the directions. Then a machined
block was bolted into place for the prop rod to plug into.
|| When the hood is closed, the rod rests
in this modified factory fender rubber. It was simply glued into place.|
|| There you have it--a simple open and shut
case. The CPP kit functions perfectly, and the parts that aren't stainless
can be paint-matched or chromed to finish off your engine compartment accordingly.
|It's always best to have shop and assembly manuals on hand
to make sure your installation is correct and to make the project as easy
as possible. We recommend factory manuals, available at Greg's