Classic Performance Products 175 East Freedom Avenue Anaheim, CA 92801

If you want people to stop and check out your engine compartment, one surefire way is to install a reverse-tilt hood kit.
With the CPP kit, the hood slides up and out slightly to clear the fenders before it hinges forward.
 

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CPP Installs a Reverse-Tilt Hood Kit for '53-56 F-100s

By Jeremy Cook

A lot of what we cover in CLASSIC TRUCKS is the latest and greatest that the industry has to offer. Then there are the items that may have been introduced some time ago but have stood the test of time and are still considered a must-have item. For this story, we're revisiting one of the tried and true modifications for classic trucks--the reverse tilt-hood kit.

The Classic Performance Products Hood Flip Kit for '53-56 F-100s allows the hood to flip forward, offering a unique custom look while providing improved access to the engine compartment. The kit comes in a combination of polished stainless and bare steel, allowing the raw components to be chromed or painted to suit your needs. All of the required hardware is included as well. All you need to get started is a few hand tools. If you have a drill, a hand-held grinder, and a friend, you can complete the install in less than a couple hours. Follow along as CPP's Jim and Alan install the kit on the CPP project '56 Effie.


Another cool feature is when it is in the closed position; the stock hood latch still keeps the hood locked in place. The CPP kit comes complete with all the components and hardware for the installation. All of the friction parts are in polished stainless while the braces and main hinge are in raw steel--which can be chromed or painted at your discretion. You'll need a friend's help right off the bat. The first step was to remove the four bolts that attach the hood to the hinges while supporting the hood.
The hood was lifted off the truck and flipped over onto something soft so it could be worked on. The hinges were then removed from the cowl. The stock support rods were removed from the rear of the hood. You can then use them to pry on the front two brackets to expose the three welds that hold each of them on. A special bit was used to cut out the three welds and remove the brackets. Then the area was ground smooth. If your truck is already painted, this is obviously an area you will need to be careful with.
The new braces were then set in place and bolted to the rear of the hood. Now the top hinge brackets were bolted to each of the supports with the supplied hardware. These four oblonged holes are what give you your hood adjustment up front. The pivot bar then temporarily dropped into the brackets so the supports could be aligned before being bolted to the front of the hood.
Using the tip of the hood spring as a reference point, the front brackets were measured out equally and marked. A die grinder was used to clearance a small portion of the metal lip so the supports would lay flush. This is another area where you'll need to take precautions to protect the existing paint. Alan used a small pair of Vise Grips to hold the supports in place while he marked and drilled the three holes on each side. Here he dimpled the metal with a punch to keep the drill bit from walking on him.
The supports were then bolted solid to the hood using the supplied hardware. Now the pivot bar could be removed. The lower hinges were bolted to the grille support using an existing hole. By installing the pivot bar (this time permanently and with a dab of grease), we could determine exactly where the second hole for the bracket needed to be drilled and bolted. Two of the existing fender bolts were removed for the polished stainless track to be mounted. The rearmost bolt is what gives the rear of the hood its adjustment.
When you remove the stock hood hinges, you're left with four big ugly holes and maybe even some mismatched paint. The cool polished stainless covers were designed to eliminate a trip to the painter when you install the tilt kit. They simply slid on and were held with two carriage bolts. These Teflon rollers bolted to the existing hole in the bottom rear of each side of the hood. Now for the moment of truth. The hood was held in place while the pivot bar was inserted back into its brackets. Then the hood was carefully lowered into place and slowly closed. Now is the time to make all of the adjustments so the hood closes perfectly.
All that was left to be installed was the polished stainless prop rod. A hole was measured out and drilled into the fender edge between two mounting bolts. Two more holes were measured and drilled into the bottom edge of the hood as per the directions. Then a machined block was bolted into place for the prop rod to plug into. When the hood is closed, the rod rests in this modified factory fender rubber. It was simply glued into place.
There you have it--a simple open and shut case. The CPP kit functions perfectly, and the parts that aren't stainless can be paint-matched or chromed to finish off your engine compartment accordingly.
It's always best to have shop and assembly manuals on hand to make sure your installation is correct and to make the project as easy as possible. We recommend factory manuals, available at Greg's Automotive


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