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1. The Classic Performance Products Drop-Out Battery
Box is also available for Optima-sized batteries, but we went with the standard
group-24 size. We're running new cables too. The 2-gauge black cable and
lugs are from a welding supply store and are used for the positive lead.
We picked up the clear cable we would be using as the ground, as well as
the brass terminal clamps at the parts store where we prorated our dead
battery for a new one. |
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2. As soon as the old battery was removed, we ditched the
factory battery tray. |
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3. We already got rid of the heater core and filled the firewall,
so this side of the engine bay is really starting to look spartan. |
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4. While we were there, we fed the old positive cable down
by the starter and pulled off the ground. It was bolted to the front most
exhaust manifold bolt. |
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5. We determined the right frame rail, just behind the cab,
to be the perfect place to bolt the CCP stainless box, so we marked the
holes. We have a bird's-eye view because the bed floor is missing, but this
spot was to provide easy access from under the truck later on. |
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6. Then the holes were drilled out to the proper diameter. |
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7. A&B We peeled off all of the protective tape from the
mount, lined it up with the holes, and started the bolts. |
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8. We used a little air to snug down the bolts. |
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9. Our group-24 battery slid right into the box and fit like
a glove. |
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10. From underneath, we lined up the hooks and slid the battery
up until the hooks locked into place. |
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11. With the battery in place, we began to build and mount
the cables. The ground goes from the battery to the nearest frame rail,
but we were careful to leave enough slack so the battery could drop down
for removal. |
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12. Each end was then stripped. One end got a copper lug,
the other a brass terminal clamp. |
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13. We cleaned the area around an existing hole and bolted
down the ground. |
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14. Then we snugged the terminal clamp. |
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15. We still needed to ground the engine, so we cut another
small piece of ground wire to run from the exhaust manifold to the frame
rail. |
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16. The ends were stripped and a copper lug was crimped onto
each end. |
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17. Again, the area around each hole was cleaned |
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18. Now for the positive cable. We grabbed one end of the
welding cable, stripped it, and affixed a lug. |
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19. Down on the starter, we simply pulled off the nut and
replaced the old cable with the new one. |
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20. The cable then needed to run along the frame rail for
the length of the cab. We used four insulated metal clamps and self-tapping
screws to mount 'em. |
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21. Now the cable could be cut to length. |
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22. The clamp was attached and mounted to the terminal. |
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23. Finally, the battery hold-down was snugged. |
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24. That's it! With a little help from Classic Performance,
Project Old School was fired up and cruising the parking lot in no time. |
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It's always best to have shop and assembly manuals on hand
to make sure your installation is correct and to make the project as easy
as possible. We recommend factory manuals, available at Greg's
Automotive |
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